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by Steve Dollar



There are no tears in pastry, says Jacquy Pfeiffer, the cofounder of Chicago"s French Pastry School and star of Kings of Pastry. The new documentary, from the illustrious filmmaking team of DA Pennebaker and Chris Hegedus, follows the affable Frechman as he ventures into his own culinary war room: the fevered competition for the Meilleurs Ouvriers de France, which for the 16 chefs who make it into the finals each year might as well be the Nobel Prize in the art and science of patisserie.

Just as there"s no omelette without some broken eggs, the contest pushes each chef to the absolute limit. As the cameras follow Pfeiffer through the arduous process-bolstered by his exceedingly patient and devoted girlfriend, Rachel-the story becomes a confectionary cliffhanger, as marvelous and terrifyingly fragile sugar sculptures teeter in peril. Even the world"s greatest butter-and-egg men are humbled by the Olympian task of making the perfect creampuff.

I caught up with the husband-and-wife team of Pennebaker and Hegedus at their Upper West Side offices, where Pfeiffer joined them to discuss the joy (and horror) of cooking. All three have been onhand this week for the film"s premiere at New York"s Film Forum where, yes, dessert was served. WARNING: Minor Spoiler Alert!